1931 - 2014

you left us with 

"the sound of silence"


the flipping weekend!


enjoy yours


Goodbye Doc...

Surfer, physician, writer, father
 lover of the sea

What’s next for Doc Paskowitz? ( from Salty State :)
Next is death. And every day I prepare for that. The next step from now to “kicking out.” There are a lot of complications both physical and mental. In order for me to kick out there looms a whole scenario of people of people crying and the money for a casket my family does not have. There is all kinds of bullshit that goes on with dying.
So, I am trying to find a nice shark that will eat me. I found one at Waikiki but he wasn’t that interested in me. I saw one out in the blue water of Samoa, but I kinda chickened out. Now I am thinking if I can get to Tonga, maybe that same shark is there. And that would be magnificent just to have that shark just eat me up and that’s it! Period. Especially in an area when your children, wife, and friends are not around. And there you are – a nice end to it.

Doc Paskowitz  .  1921 - 2014


there she was
as I rounded the corner

what all sailors know...

( Point Reyes, California, yesterday )



you were never afraid....

1954 - 2014



when you come from the sea...


write a letter

make a mystery

play some music

sleep in moonlight


surfing by the light of the moon...

6:45 A.M.




Workers for Freedom

Around 1986 I wandered into a shop on Lower John Street...
and for a short time, life became magic. 

Graham Fraser 
Richard Nott

Workers for Freedom 

( this little record is for Mark, across the pond )



to the last of the inimitables...

So many anecdotes...so much life.

"Debo took refuge in quaintly odd pursuits. Another sister, Jessica (“Decca”) Mitford, described her spending “silent hours in the chicken house learning to do an exact imitation of the look of pained concentration that comes over a hen’s face when it is laying an egg, and each morning she methodically checked over and listed in a notebook the stillbirths reported in the vital statistics columns of The Times”.

 Dowager Duchess of Devonshire

31 March 1920 -24 September 2014


as the sun crosses 

the celestial equator

welcome autumn.

we feel almost dizzy

with your beauty

and all your delicate 




The only time they get up easily for school
are school days that start with 

it's a film you can watch over and over

and at the end of the film
the film I call "Blue"

they come out happy

and school and all the world
are put right again...


" The Smoker  "

he's becoming my alter boy...
post surgery gifts
and thanks
to all my guardian angels for looking after me


They are punch drunk on happiness

we all are...

Earthquakes do this to you.

Make you happy to just be alive.

Pancakes were made

which they decided to eat in wetsuits

and there was a south swell 

causing big wave energy

and everyone ran down the hill 

whooping like Indians

and things felt technicolour and alive

and special 


Friday night dinner table...

One can not improve on nature

it is perfect 


(p.s. fabulous photo, courtesy of Bruce Usher )


one hero dies
but another one is discovered...

surf photography


Jay Adams

The original Z boy, 

Dogtown skater

 surfer extraordinaire ...

 who went from fame to prison and spent 24 years in turmoil and despair. 

He was more comfortable on a skateboard or a surfboard, than on foot...stylistic wonder boy, the guy who made southern California skating what it is today ...

May there be empty swimming pools  and big waves waiting for you in heaven.